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Gunga Jumna (1961), directed by Nitin Bose and ghost-directed by lead actor Dilip Kumar, was set in rural Uttar Pradesh. Her outfits combined Indian and Western styles and were worn by urban as well as rural characters. 'The Last Color' review: Celebrity chef Vikas Khanna's film has got its heart at the right place Once again, Athaiya visited the location, in Bhuj in Gujarat, for inspiration. Bhanu held the prestigious distinction for 26 years before the Slumdog Millionaire crew stole the show. Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. I had the great privilege of working with her in the Marathi film " Katha Don Ganpatravanchi" 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 — Renuka Shahane (@renukash) October 15, 2020 Its founding members included some of India’s future canvas kings – MF Husain, FN Souza, KH Ara, SH Raza. [15], Black and White / Color separate (1948–1956, 1959–1966), National Film Award for Best Costume Design, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, "Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away", "Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane", "From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91", "Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91", "The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya", "No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet", April 2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI "Athaiya meets Dalai Lama", "First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award", "Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft", "The 55th Academy Awards (1983) Nominees and Winners", Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, British Academy of Film and Television Arts, "Filmfare: 'Jodha...' bags 5, Priyanka, Hrithik shine", "NGO to honour Bhanu Athaiya with Lifetime Achievement award", "Bhanu Athaiya movies and filmography - Cinestaan.com", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bhanu_Athaiya&oldid=996120353, Best Costume Design Academy Award winners, Best Costume Design National Film Award winners, Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art alumni, All Wikipedia articles written in Indian English, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 24 December 2020, at 17:19. New Delhi: Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passed away on Thursday (October 15). Ashutosh Gowariker’s period drama Lagaan (2001), about a cricket match waged between Indian villagers and British colonisers, is among Athaiya’s most significant projects. Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, passed away at the age of 91 on October 15 after a prolonged illness, said her daughter Radhika Gupta. Apart from Oscars, Bhanu Athaiya also won two National Film Awards in 1991 and 2002. “I have no regrets at all. “The salwar kameez was starting to grow in popularity in movies as the college girl’s choice of clothing,” Assomull observes in 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes. Movies. “I was faced with a big decision, but to me it was clear I needed to stand on my own feet, and fashion designing was the more practical option.”. Athaiya based her costumes on the wall paintings at the Ajanta caves in Aurangabad. The design is an example of both imagination and expediency – Mumtaz needed to freely wriggle her hips and match steps with co-star Shammi Kapoor for the vigorously choreographed track. She soon became a part of the Guru Dutt team. At 24, Bhanu Athaiya (then Rajopadhye), had already begun to make an impression in the circuit. [2], Athaiya started her career as a freelance fashion illustrator for various women's magazines in Bombay, including the 'Eve's Weekly'. While Athaiya was the first Indian to get an Oscar, she was associated with another production that made it to the shortlist of entries in the Foreign Language category. The nuances that Athaiya wove into the costumes enhanced characterisation. For Swades, Athaiya dressed up Shah Rukh Khan in casual and yet dapper shirts and jeans, a mark of his Westernised ways. “The costume looked somewhat bare, but it was skin-fitted, and Bhanu lent that authenticity.”. [1], Athaiya died on 15 October 2020 from complications of brain cancer at a medical center in South Mumbai, aged 91. [7], In a career spanning over 100 films, she worked with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Athaiya worked across genres, including romance, period and thriller. Bhanu Athaiya just can't stop talking about what she loves best -- dressing up the stars. Her father was a self-taught artist and photographer who also worked in the productions of pioneering Indian filmmaker Baburao Painter. (1956). The Progressive Artists’ Group had been formed around the time. RIP Bhanu Athaiya🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 What an amazing, committed Costume designer she was. Athaiya was initially intimidated by the production: “The stark look of Gandhi’s dhoti was frightening in comparison to the razzle-dazzle of Hindi cinema,” she wrote in her memoir. “I conceived and executed the entire look for this film, from the villagers of Champaner, to the British regiment and the group of English civilians,” she wrote. Bhanu Athaiya pictured with “Gandhi” director Richard Attenborough at the 55th Academy Awards. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough. Winner of an Oscar award, the pride of our country, yet so very humble. Athaiya created some of her most alluring clothes for Lekh Tandon’s Amrapali (1966), based on the fourth-century legend of the palace dancer who became a Buddhist nun. Co-curator Zehra Jumabhoy wrote in an essay titled A Progressive Revolution? “There were a number of interesting requirements ranging from the cricket costumes and gear, the British military uniforms and dashing red jackets for the ball, to the ladies’ graceful evening gowns, as well as the village dresses.”. She attended a wedding to make notes on how the local women dressed and bedecked themselves, and closely studied turban tying styles. Bhanu Athaiya was born on April 28, 1929 in Kolhapur, Kolhapur State, British India as Annasaheb Rajopadhye. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award. Apart from doing illustrations for Eve’s Weekly, she was designing clothes at a boutique, and her clients included movie stars such as Kamini Kaushal and Nargis. She was … Her last major project was the television series Mahabharat in 2013. She used only khadi and handloom fabrics and dressed the Indian women in bright colours and their British counterparts in pale pastels. In Search of Gandhi, Richard Attenborough’s account of the making of the Mahatma Gandhi biopic, attributed “…the veracity of the period clothes worn both by the huge crowds and the principal actors” to Athaiya’s “eagle eye”. Athaiya’s credits in the 2000s included Jabbar Patel’s Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar and Ashutosh Gowariker’s Swades (2004). However, unknown to many, the first Indian to ever receive an Oscar had been Bhanu Athaiya, a costume designer, way back in 1983 for the movie Gandhi, Lord Richard Attenborough’s magnum opus. She was the first Indian to receive the very prestigious Oscars award. Bhanu Athaiya made history on April 11, 1983, when she became the first Indian to win an Oscar. Athaiya, who won an Oscar for her work in the 1983 film “Gandhi”, passed away peacefully in her sleep, her daughter Radhika Gupta told PTI. India's first Academy Award winner Bhanu Athaiya has passed away at the age of 91. Athaiya could recreate mundane reality as deftly as she could conjure up oopmh. Another costume that was closely associated with its wearer was Sadhana’s fitting churidar and knee-length tunic in Yash Chopra’s Waqt (1965). First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award. The Lycra-legging-style churidar, which you now find in department stores such as Westside and Lifestyle, can be traced back to this look.”. When a new women’s magazine called Eve’s Weekly was launched, Athaiya switched jobs. She had been ailing for several years. Athaiya, who worked in over 100 films, was the first Indian to win the prestigious Oscar Award. “I carried on with my work, but confined myself to the wardrobe department and covered my face with dupattas for the entire shoot.”. in 1956,[4] and followed it up with other Guru Dutt films such as Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962). Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker; and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough. She was the first Indian to win an Academy Award, winning one for costume design for Gandhi in 1982. Later when its editor opened a boutique, she asked Athaiya to try designing dresses, hereupon she discovered her flair for designing clothes. Gaitonde marked the association in the 1952 painting Portrait of Bhanu. Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): Oscar-winning costume designer was a cut above the rest Before Bhanu Athaiya, the Oscar-winning designer, there was Bhanu Athaiya, the modernist painter [14] On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy. For his Shree 420 (1955), Athaiya worked on the costumes worn by second lead Nadira. She was born Bhanumati Rajopadhye on April 28, 1929, in Kolhapur. “The lyrics of the song, the mischief in Mumtaz’s eyes and the spirit of the dress all came together to create a legend in Hindi commercial cinema.” The garment, which had a zip on the side to permit easy movement, came to be known as the Mumtaz sari. [3], She made her debut as a film costume designer with the film C.I.D. Athaiya shared the honour with her British collaborator John Mollo. “The way I was made to look, it was meant to be an all-illusion; so all the costumes were in very thin fabric in skin colour,” Vyjayanthimala wrote in her autobiography Bonding... 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